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(lively music) Now let's make thetabletop and bench tops.
I lay out my stock on the assembly table to strategize my cuts.
Although I love to keepthese boards at full width, I decided to cut themdown into narrower boards.
Now even though this is considered a fairly rustic projects and a few dings and scratches and knots here and there are no big deal, you still want to payattention to the grain, and you need to understandwhat's going on with the boards to prevent problems fromhappening in the future.
Let me show you what'sbecoming a bit of an issue on these wider panels.
Basically the top oftable and the seat tops.
If you look at the end grain it really tells the story.
In the center here we havewhat's known as the pith.
Any time you include the pith in a project it's just asking for problems because this is wherea lot of the cracking and the movement will originate from.
If you can avoid thatit's always a good thing.
If you look at the top of this board you could see I'm alreadyexperiencing cracks.
Right there along the line of the pith.
This is something that youreally do want to remove.
As you could see, belowI've actually got a board that's been split down the middle and really we're notgonna sacrifice that much.
We're only gonna takemaybe the middle inches or 3/4 of an inch to remove the pith, and then what we wind up with is two much more stable boards.
It's a little bit more interms of gluing this up because now we have twoboards instead of one but I think it's worthit for the stability.
The boards are cut to roughlength at the miter saw and then ripped at the bandsaw to remove the pith.
The resulting boards arejointed and planed to size.
The boards are then rippedto width at the table saw.
While large and heavy, this table top is reallynothing more than giant panel.
(lighthearted guitar music) Spread the glue quickly and get those clamps in place.
(lighthearted guitar music) Be sure to scrape away theglue after it skins over but before it becomes hard.
Now it's the same deal for the bench tops.
Once the glue is completely dry I used my jack plane to clean up the top.
The glue up is already flat but the jack plane helpsto level the surface and removes any irregularities.
Plus it's a great workout.
The surface is then sanded thoroughly.
Using a large square, I setup my track saw guide and cut off one end of the table top.
I repeat the process on the other side cutting the top to its final length.
Don't have a track saw? Try making your own track using sheet goods anda regular circular saw.
The breadboards onthese table are optional but I think they makefor a handsome addition while also helping to keepour table flat over time.
There are lots of methodsfor making breadboard ends but here's one using the Domino XL.
I cut six mortises intothe ends of the table.
In the breadboard ends Icut the two center mortises on the tight setting.
Using the loose setting Icut all the outer mortises.
This extra slot is gonna allow our table to safely expand and contract over time.
With the tenons glued into the table side, I slide the breadboard end into place.
Notice that I'm only applying glue to the center tenons.
The outside tenons mustbe allowed to move freely from side to side.
With the end clamped in place I drill through thebreadboard end into the tenon being careful not to go allthe way through the board.
I then drive a wooden dowel into the hole and through the tenon.
The last half inch of the dowel receives glue to lockit into the breadboard.
The dowels are driven intothe outside tenons only not the glued up tenons.
Using a flush trim saw I trim the dowels cleanly.
Cutting the bench topsto size is much easier using the sliding compound miter saw.
The top is too wide to do it in one cut so I just flip it andget as close as I can with the second cut.
Sanding will take care of any unevenness.
Each corner of the topsneeds to be rounded over not just for looks but for comfort and the sake of a little toddler's head.
I usually use whateverI have laying around to create the shape.
A coarse rasp makes quickwork of the round over.
The tops are now rounded over to match the rest of the pieces and everything is sanded to 220 grit.
To protect the bottom of the legs where moisture is mostlikely to penetrate, I'm using a product calledClear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer.
This two-part mixture willsoak into the end grain and make it pretty muchimpervious to moisture.
Once mixed I paint it untothe bottom of the legs.
Blue tape helps to holdpotential drips under control.
I apply numerous coats over the course of a few minutes.
While not in the central step this is something that I like to do with all of my outdoor pieces.
The primary finish I'm usingfor the table and benches is Watco Teak Oil.
It's essentially an oil/varnish blend formulated for outdoor use.
It's a fairly light duty finish that offers some protection but yields a morenatural-looking end product.
I'm not a big fan of thick film finishes for outdoor projects.
The product is appliedgenerously to the wood surface giving it 10 to 15 minutes to absorb.
This seater drinks up thefirst coat in no time.
The excess is wiped off with an old sock and yes, you have to use an old sock.
The next day, I apply a secondcoat in the same fashion.
Now with the table upside down, I center the base on the top and prepare to attach our screw blocks.
The blocks on the side are installed with plenty of room on either side.
I pre-drill and then drive the screw.
Side to side movement in the slot isn't as much of an issue onthe long sides of the table but front to back movement is.
I pull the block outby about a quarter inch and allow for expansion and contraction.
Incidentally, I do have some stainless steel screws on order.
These are just temporary place holders that actually aren'tintended for outdoor use but I'll replace them later.
(lighthearted guitar music) After two good coats of that teak oil, this table is ready to go outside.
Here's the thing.
Teak oil is not a maintenance-free finish.
In about a year, maybe two if I'm lucky I probably will haveto apply another coat.
The thing with this oil is it absorbs deep into the fibers and it's not really providing a film like a full strength varnish would.
This is really just an oil/varnish blend but it's very dilute so it does provide some protection but not as much as a film.
The good thing about this though is it's very easy to re-apply.
That little bit ofmaintenance that I have to do every one or two yearsis really no big deal.
I just give it a light sanding and I come back andre-apply another coat of oil and it's gonna look great.
Whereas if I have a filmfinish that fails on me that film finish needsto be scraped, sanded or stripped off and then you got to start over again.
For me this is a good compromise solution.
Now I hope you build one ofthese tables for yourself.
If you do, you shouldsend me some pictures, I'd love to put them on the website and we do of course have plans for you to download a sketch up plan and even a cut list where you could get all the sizes for the various parts for this project.
I hope you build along.
Thanks for watching and best of luck with your wood working.
(lighthearted music) Woman in red:I guess this will do.
(lively banjo music) This is the reason why I need this table.
Please make a table.
God! What do you want me to say? Make me a table.
Build me a table (bleep).
(laughing) There's a big crack right here.
(lively banjo music) Marc:It's rustic! (laughing).